Twilly d'Hermès, launched in 2017, marked a significant shift in the Hermès fragrance landscape. Compared to the house's previous decade of perfume releases, Twilly stands out as noticeably richer, more opaque, sweeter, and warmer. This distinct departure, especially considering it was Christine Nagel's first mainstream fragrance for the house, sparked considerable discussion and divided opinions amongst perfume enthusiasts. This in-depth review will explore the multifaceted character of Twilly d'Hermès, examining its composition, longevity, sillage, and overall impact within the context of the Hermès fragrance legacy.
A New Era for Hermès Perfumes: The Christine Nagel Influence
Before delving into the specifics of Twilly, it's crucial to understand the context of its creation. Christine Nagel, the current in-house perfumer for Hermès, took the reins from Jean-Claude Ellena in 2015. Ellena, known for his minimalist and airy style, had crafted a distinct olfactory identity for Hermès, characterized by elegance, restraint, and a certain ethereal lightness. Nagel, while respecting the heritage of the house, brought a bolder, more opulent, and undeniably more sensual approach to her creations. Twilly d'Hermès, therefore, represents a conscious and deliberate divergence from the established Hermès aesthetic. It's a perfume that embraces a richer texture and a more pronounced sweetness, traits less prevalent in previous Hermès releases. This shift didn't come without its critics, but it undeniably injected a fresh dynamism into the brand's fragrance offerings.
The Olfactory Landscape of Twilly d'Hermès: A Detailed Exploration
Twilly d'Hermès is a vibrant and multifaceted fragrance, far from the subtle whispers of some of its predecessors. Its composition is a captivating blend of ginger, tuberose, and sandalwood. These three notes, while seemingly simple, interact in a complex and intriguing way, creating a fragrance that is both playful and sophisticated.
* Ginger: The opening burst of ginger is not the sharp, almost spicy ginger found in many contemporary fragrances. Instead, it's a warmer, more rounded ginger, almost candied, providing an initial sweetness that is both inviting and unexpected. This ginger note lays the foundation for the fragrance, setting a playful and slightly mischievous tone. It doesn't dominate, but rather acts as a vibrant counterpoint to the other notes.
* Tuberose: The heart of Twilly d'Hermès is undeniably the tuberose. However, this isn't the heady, almost indolic tuberose found in some vintage perfumes. Nagel has skillfully tamed the potential indolic facets, rendering a creamy, slightly powdery tuberose that adds a luxurious and sensual dimension. This tuberose is not overtly sweet, but contributes to the overall warmth and richness of the fragrance. It's a well-balanced tuberose, neither too sharp nor too cloying.
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